2020 年，Grand Seiko Heritage 系列打造了全新設計。錶殼具有以 Grand Seiko 風格為中心的立體造型，同時又採用鏡面和髮絲紋的全新融合，呈現出洗鍊低調的外觀。除了錶殼變得更薄之外，也保持手錶的低重心，確保穩定地貼合在手腕上。 酒井清隆說道：「我們認為Grand Seiko的主題是繼承、進化和深化。設計一款適合新一代的“近未來樣貌”，同時繼承前輩所建立的 Grand Seiko 傳統，這就是我們的目標，”新設計的創造者。

煥然一新的面貌，永恆的價值

Heritage系列揭示了Grand Seiko的根源和靈魂。其核心是代表 Grand Seiko 的兩個設計系列：44GS 的現代重新詮釋以及二十年前首款 Calibre 9S 的設計。兩者均出自資深首席設計師 小杉修弘(Nobuhiro Kosugi) 之手。
為什麼要嘗試重新設計一款如此經得起時間考驗的腕錶呢？酒井解釋了他的靈感來源。
「自誕生以來，9S 機械機芯和 9R Spring Drive 機芯都經歷了顯著的演變，這得益於製造技術和工藝的進步。二十年來，人們的生活方式也發生了很大的變化。我想隨著機芯的發展而發展Heritage系列的設計，同時考慮到歷史背景和現代價值。這是我不知不覺中產生的一個想法，並且逐漸變得更加強烈。” 2017年，酒井開始致力於新的設計理念。為了掌握20年前良師益友小杉的設計創作的時代背景，酒井首先深入了解了當時人們的生活方式。

「當時在日本和其他地方，汽車更閃亮，西裝更考究，具有閃閃發光魅力的東西往往很受歡迎。手錶也主要在辦公室或聚會等正式場合佩戴。從更廣闊的角度來看，當時的人們更傾向於重視集體意識。那是一個更注重如何融入周遭而不是強烈主張自己的時代。二十多年過去了，全球化不斷進步，無論是穿著還是日常生活中需要的東西，設計更簡單、更精緻、只有必要功能的物品往往會受到青睞。人們開始更獨立地思考一切，越來越多的人只重視自己選擇的生活方式。甚至他們上班時穿的衣服也不會完全一樣：有些人會穿西裝，有些則不會。他們不再整天坐在辦公桌前工作，而是以更加多元的方式活躍起來。這些變化意味著手錶的佩戴環境也會自然變化，並且預計隨著變化速度的加快，這種情況還將繼續擴大。展望未來，我認為這些想法應該激發 Grand Seiko 的下一個設計。我深深地銘記在心，這就是賦予我的使命。

打造 Grand Seiko 未來 60 年的新面貌

隨著 Grand Seiko 迎來六十週年紀念日，酒井與同事們在尋求新的設計方向時面臨著特殊的挑戰。他們充分認識到這一時刻的重要性以及 Grand Seiko 悠久歷史所賦予的義務，但他們決心在尊重過去的同時展望未來。
“目的是打造令人印象深刻的外。在個人的思維方式和行為方式更加受到重視的時代，我認為需要一種設計來凸顯佩戴手錶者的存在。你也可以說它就像是一種獨特的光環圍繞著手錶。我繼續進行設計，有意識地體現這種特殊魅力。” 酒井繼續對六十年來定義 Grand Seiko 的眾多設計進行深入研究。當然，初代 Grand Seiko 顯得特別突出。 「初代Grand Seiko的時針和分針很獨特，而我關注的是時針和分針之間的對比：寬闊的時針與細長的分針形成鮮明對比。透過新的設計，我希望進一步強化這種對比，以實現更強的辨識性。”

光輝與寧靜

為 Grand Seiko 建立永恆的設計理念，其本質是探索光與影的最佳平衡，酒井相信他應該尋求一種光芒四射但寧靜內斂的外觀。他專注於微妙的髮絲紋，提供深沉、柔和的溫度。 「我覺得充分利用髮絲紋特有的霧面質感，可以為手錶整體帶來一種寧靜的光感和運動感。在新設計中，錶殼側面、錶圈上表面和錶耳等部件均採用拉絲處理，並透過部分融入鏡面，使美麗的邊緣脫穎而出，給人留下深刻印象，同時保留整體低調的魅力。由於髮絲紋和鏡面的排列位置和方式不同，氛圍也會發生很大變化，因此我們在設計過程中仔細平衡佈局。換句話說，可以說如何控制鏡面的關鍵在於充分利用髮絲紋。透過抑制光線，增強了髮絲紋表面的寧靜世界觀，並在光影對比中創造出更大的表現力，實現散發深邃光芒的設計。”

堅固的錶殼，適合戴在手腕上

當酒井尋求實現他的想法時，纖薄的新機芯擁有巨大優勢。他試圖充分利用這個機會。「我們大大減少了錶殼側面的反向斜角，並將其形成筆直、寬闊的垂直表面，從而賦予錶殼側面深度和具有強烈存在感的形狀。如果機芯很厚，我們總是想辦法讓它看起來很薄，但這款錶殼的設計並不是為了看起來很薄。這種纖薄的錶殼形狀正是因為機芯變得更薄而得以實現。 從錶殼側面陡峭的垂直表面、具有平緩曲線的表耳上表面，到尖端被銳利切割的表耳，我們實現了堅固且輕盈的錶殼形狀。

酒井也想讓他的新手錶讓佩戴者在手腕上感受到愉悅。舒適和穩定是他的目標。
「為了打造一款適合所有場合的腕錶，最重要的是必須具備穩定性。實現這一點的關鍵在於手錶的重心位置。機芯厚了，重心自然就高了；反之，機芯越薄，重心可以越低。在設計上，我們利用了機芯更纖薄的優勢，將後蓋做得盡可能的薄，讓我們最大限度的降低重心。此外，相對於40毫米的錶殼尺寸，我們將錶耳寬度加寬至22毫米，使手錶在水平方向上更加穩定，並更好地貼合手腕。」

 

高辨識性和 Grand Seiko 的錶盤設計

「我們希望保持時針和分針之間的平衡以及更好的辨識性。借鑒初代Grand Seiko 指針的對比，我將時針盡可能加寬，分針做得又長又細。結果令人高興。我們提高了錶盤的辨識性。”酒井也增加了時標的寬度以對齊時針。

「為了更容易讀取時間，穿過時針中心的印刷線和每個時標中心的凹槽切割面都製成了相同的寬度。我們大膽將時針前端切平，原因是為了使時針在視覺上更顯寬闊。時標中心的凹槽與時針的印刷線對齊，提高了準確性和辨識性。為了方便閱讀，彎曲分針前端並儘可能靠近分鐘刻度。12 點鐘位置的時標是 Grand Seiko 的重要元素之一。通常，12點鐘位置的時標寬度是其他時標的兩倍，但這是否是Grand Seiko未來的正確外觀？再次想起來，我又回到了自己設定的目標「令人印象深刻的外觀」。12點鐘位置的時標具有標誌性的形狀，使腕錶一眼就能被辨認出來，更容易讀取時間，從而保留了Grand Seiko風格的基礎。這讓我得出以下結論：12 點鐘位置的時標應該有強烈的存在感，寬度大約是 2.5 倍。」

代代相傳的設計精神

身為一名腕錶設計師，酒井的目標是「追求手錶作為工具的意義。」這是我從前輩那裡學到的，我一直牢記在心。在設計重視長期耐用的 Grand Seiko 時，我們設計師必須牢記我們前輩多年前所知道的東西。他們想「為需要的人製造工具」。另外，被問到「為什麼要這樣設計？」時，無論是造型還是顏色，都要能賦與每個細節的意義。這也是我們從前人那裡學到的知識，透過徹底賦予意義，手錶獲得了深度，並且更接近腕錶應有的樣子。」

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In 2020, a new design was created for the Grand Seiko Heritage Collection. The case has the strong three-dimensional shapes that are central to the Grand Seiko Style and yet a fresh understated look that has a new blend of mirrored and hairline finishing. In addition to making the case thinner, the watch’s center of gravity has been kept low, ensuring a stable fit on the wrist.
“What we saw as our themes were inheritance, evolution and deepening. To design a ‘near-future face’ appropriate for a new generation while inheriting the Grand Seiko traditions that our predecessors have built up, that was our goal,” says Kiyotaka Sakai, the creator of the new design.

A fresh look with eternal values

The Heritage Collection reveals both the roots and the soul of Grand Seiko. At its core are two design series that are emblematic of Grand Seiko, the modern re-interpretation of the 44GS and the design that housed the first Caliber 9S twenty years ago. Both were created by veteran chief designer, Nobuhiro Kosugi.
Why try to re-design a watch that has so proudly stood the test of time? Sakai explains what inspired him.
“Since their creation, the 9S mechanical movement and the 9R Spring Drive movement have both undergone remarkable evolutions, thanks to advances in manufacturing technology and craftsmanship. Over two decades, people’s lifestyles have also changed considerably. I wanted to evolve the design of the Heritage Collection just as the movements have evolved, taking into account the historical background and the values of the modern age. It’s an idea that came to me without my knowing it, and it gradually grew stronger.” It was in 2017 that Sakai began to work on the new design concept. In order to grasp the background of the time when his mentor and friend Kosugi’s design was created 20 years ago, Sakai first immersed himself in the lifestyles of people at that time.

“In Japan and elsewhere at that time, cars were shinier, suits were more dressy and things with a glittery charm tended to be popular. Watches were also mainly worn in formal situations like at the office or parties. Looking from a broader perspective, people at that time were more strongly inclined to value collective consciousness. Whatever the age, there are as many values as there are people so that statement is too sweeping, but it was an age when more emphasis was put on how to fit in with those around you, than on strongly asserting your own opinions. Over two decades have passed since then, globalization has progressed, and whether it’s something you wear or need for your daily life, items that have a simpler and more sophisticated design with only necessary functions tend to be preferred. Individuals have begun to think more independently about everything, and there are a growing number of people who value only the ways of life they have chosen themselves. Even the outfits that they wear to work won’t all be the same: some will be in suits and some won’t. Rather than sitting at a desk working all day, they are active in more multi-faceted ways. These changes mean that the settings in which a watch is worn also naturally change, and it is predicted that this will continue to expand even more as the speed of change increases. Looking ahead to the future, these are the ideas that I felt should inspire the next design of Grand Seiko. I have etched it deeply into my mind that this is the mission that was assigned to me.”

Creating the new face of Grand Seiko for the next 60 years

As Grand Seiko reached its sixtieth anniversary, Sakai and his colleagues faced a special challenge as they sought a new design direction. They fully realized the significance of the moment and the obligations that Grand Seiko’s long history imposed but were determined to look ahead as much as they wanted to respect the past.
“The aim was to create an ‘impressive look.’ In an era where an individual’s way of thinking and behavior are more valued, I thought we needed a design that announced the presence of the person wearing the watch. You could also say it’s like a unique aura that surrounds the watch. I moved ahead with the design, conscious of embodying that kind of special charm.” Sakai continued his ever deeper investigation into the many designs that have, together, defined Grand Seiko over six decades. Of course, the first Grand Seiko loomed large. “The hour and minute hands of the first Grand Seiko are distinctive, but what I had my eye on was the sharp balance between the hour and minute hands: the thick, bold hour hand contrasting with the long and slender minute hand. With the new design, I wanted to further deepen this balance to achieve even greater visibility.”

Radiance and serenity

To create a lasting design idea for Grand Seiko whose very essence involves exploring the optimum balance of light and shadow, Sakai believed that he should seek for a look that was radiant but in a serene and not glittery way. He focused on subtle hairline surfaces that offered a deep, soft warmth.
“I felt that a serene radiance and sporty impression could be given to the watch as a whole by making full use of the matte texture peculiar to hairline. In the new design, a hairline finish is applied to components including the side of the watch case, the upper surface of the bezel and the upper surface of the lug, and, by partially incorporating a mirror surface, the beautiful edges stand out and create a sharp impression while retaining an understated charm overall. Since the expression changes greatly depending on where and how the hairline and mirror surfaces are arranged, we carefully balanced the design as we proceeded. In other words, it could be said that how you control the way the mirror surface is placed was the key to making the most of the hairline. By suppressing the light, the serene world view of the hairline surface is enhanced, and with the creation of greater expression in the contrast between light and shadow, a design emitting a profound radiance is achieved.”

A strong case that sits well on the wrist

As he sought to realize his idea, Sakai had a great advantage in the availability of a new movement with a slim profile. He sought to make the most of this opportunity.
“We greatly reduced the reverse bevel of the case side and, by making it into a straight, wide vertical surface, we gave depth to the case side and a shape with a strong presence. If a movement is thick, we often devise ways to make it look thin, but this case hasn’t been designed to look thin. This is a slim case shape that was made possible precisely because the movement has been made thinner.
From the steep vertical surface of the case side, the upper surface of the lug with its gentle curve, and the lug with a sharply cut off tip, we have achieved a case shape that is firm and light.”
Sakai also wanted to make his new watch a joy to feel on the wearer’s wrist. Comfort and stability were his aims.
“In aiming for a watch suitable for all situations, it was essential that it had a greater feeling of stability and sat extremely well on the wrist. The key to achieving this is the position of the watch’s center of gravity. When the movement is thick, the center of gravity naturally becomes higher; conversely, the thinner the movement, the lower the center of gravity can be. With the design, we took advantage of the slimmer movement and made the back cover as thin as possible, allowing us to lower the center of gravity to the maximum extent. Furthermore, by widening the lug width to 22mm in respect to the 40mm case size, we made the watch more stable in the horizontal direction and achieved a better fit to the wrist.”

A dial design with high visibility and the stature of Grand Seiko

“We wanted to maintain a balance between the hour and minute hands and greater visibility. Learning from the sharp balance of the hands on the first Grand Seiko, I made the hour hand as thick as possible and the minute hand long and slender. The result was pleasing. We improved the dial’s visibility.” Sakai also increased the width of the indexes in line with the thickness of the hour hand.

“To make it easier to read the time, the printed line that passes through the center of the hour hand and the groove cut surface in the center of each index have been made the same width. The reason we ventured to make the hour hand tip into a cut-off shape was to make the hour hand as thick as possible. The connecting of the groove at the center of the index and the printed line of the hour hand increases accuracy and visibility. Consideration has also been given to the minute hand for ease of reading. The tip of the minute hand has been bent and brought as close as possible to the minute track. The 12 o’clock index is an important part of the Grand Seiko signature. Normally, the index at 12 o’clock is a shape with twice the width of the other indexes, but is that the right look for Grand Seiko in the future? Thinking about it again brought me back to the ‘impressive look’ I had set as my goal. The 12 o’clock index, with its symbolic shape that makes the model recognizable at first glance, makes it easier to read the time, thus preserving the foundation of the Grand Seiko Style. This led me to the conclusion of that the 12 o’clock index should have greater presence and approximately 2.5 times the width.”

A spirit of design that will be passed down the generations

Ever mindful of the ideas that have inspired Grand Seiko since its inception, Sakai’s aim as a watch designer is “pursuing what a watch should be as a tool. This is something I learned from my seniors and am always keeping in mind. In designing a Grand Seiko that places importance on long-term usability, we designers have to keep in mind what our predecessors knew all those years ago. They wanted to ‘make tools for those who require them.’ Also, when asked ‘Why do you design this way?’ whether it be shaping or whether it be color, I always give a reason to every detail that constitutes a watch. It is also a lesson learned from our predecessors that by thoroughly ascribing meaning, a watch gains depth and gets closer to what it should be.”

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